I'm becoming quite obsessed with cochineal. For those who have no idea what that is – no worries, neither did I a few months ago (beyond it being a red food colouring). It's an insect, as well as being the name of the dye colour they produce. The insect feeds off a certain cactus and releases carminic acid to deter predators.
Oaxaca is the centre of cochineal production in Mexico and was once responsible for the second highest grossing export for the country behind silver. In fact, during colonial times, the Spanish forced a monopoly on cochineal production. If you were caught smuggling it the penalty was death.
While farming cochineal lessened dramatically following the introduction of synthetic dyes, the move to sustainability, and issues with allergies to synthetic food colouring has seen a resurgence in its production. So, given we are in the cradle of cochineal and are all interested in its use as a textile dye, we took ourselves off to a cochineal farm to see how it all works.
Below is the cochineal farmer's dye recipe chart. It's important to keep records like this if you want to achieve consistent colour each time.